Are you from India?

March 19, Friday 4pm
Penang, Malaysia

It seems I've caused quite a stir with the locals by wearing the traditional Punjabi Indian outfit. So instead of blending in as I'd desired, I'm a big walking question mark to be contemplated. "Are you from India? You look Japanese. Are any of your ancesters Indian?" Everyone is quite confused. Today was better when I hid beneath a ragged unbrella, locals style. If people can't see my face, I'm almost invisible.

Well, at least I'm cooler, and these quick drying Indian outfits are a lot easier to handwash on the road than my main dress from the states. I didn't realize that my long open weave raw silk dress would turn into a heavy sponge that a sink could barely contain. Worse, it's too heavy when wet for the small travel clothes line I brought, so I have to rush to a communal clothesline, staining my path with pink droplets. Life is different without a washer and dryer. Laundry services abound, but from what I've seen, too many accidents happen with non-colorfast garments mixed in carelessly with lights.

I started off my day with a visit to what's becoming my favorite juice stand. I had a small iced carrot juice to go, wrapped in a plastic bag with a straw, and then later a papaya milkshake. Bother were each under $1 US.

I had a fabulous meal today in Penang's China town. I gave up on trying to order the guidebook recommendations, and instead pointed to what the next table was having, and asked for whatever was popular. I was rewarded with a fabulous lunch for a whopping 12RM ($3.30 US) which I couldn't finish. I had:

Lah Lah Dao Jeun - beautiful paper thin clams about the size of a big thumbnail, generously doused with a rich brown ginger garlic sauce.
Seoh Bak - fried pork bits, dark brown, smokey, and very sweet.
Kopi Peng - A very dark and strong iced coffee with sweetened condensed milk (I think this was made with instant coffee)

...and the usual white rice complimentary fresh red and green chili slices

I scarfed down all the clams, and had them wrap up most of the pork dish which I relished the thought of having later. In the end, I gave it to an old beggar woman that came back as I was leaving. I can't say no to the elderly, though she was really working the crowd and asking for more after they gave her something... usually the equivalent of a buck here. She came back to me a second time even, and continued to explain her plight though I obviously couldn't understand. It seems that locals here usually give to the street beggars, which is the opposite of what I observe in San Francisco. It makes me wonder how people here come to be beggars in a such a family oriented society and when so many are living on the edge, yet so hard working. Malaysia is one of the most prosperous SE Asian countries.

I took more pictures of local decay and truly "manual" labor. I'm sure the locals found me odd, but coming from a land of machines, labor unions, and new buildings, this place is different. Construction workers wear those pointy chinese hats and sandals, toss bricks by hand, and tote wheel barrels. Food stall people machete huge jackfruits and spread various previously living lifeforms out to dry. I can't say that I'm fond of the squid and orange skins drying by the side of the sooty road where motorcycles park and then blast off with puff of sticky black smoke.

Last night's ant attack explained why the cupcakes at that Malaysian wedding in Melaka were encased in plastic cups!

Well, better go. I'm trying to change rooms so I can have an outlet for my laptop and computer. I wouldn't mind being closer to the fish pond either. The batteries run dry quickly, and I don't like recharging expensive equipment in public places. I'd rather make arrangements with the young son when he comes on duty around 5pm, rather than his cranky suspicious uncle who can't speak English well anyway.

I'm having to think about my escape plan to KLIA (Kuala Lumpur's International Airport). My ideal is an overnight bus that drops me off at the airport early Wednesday morning in time for my 8:30am check-in. I don't know if such a thing exists, but it would save the cost of overnight accommodations, and prevent me from oversleeping and missing my flight. The busride is only about 5 hours, so I'll miss some sleep.