Feb 2008 - I'm Back in San Francisco!

* NOTE: I will be adding a LOT to this blog through March 2008, so check back later!*

I've recently returned from 11 weeks in Brazil, with a quick visit to the spectacular Foz du Iguazu (waterfalls bordering 3 countries) in Argentina. Brazil is a huge diverse country, and I barely scratched the surface.

Words can't adequately describe my experience of Brazil. The phrase "depth charge" comes to mind, but that belies the lovely light spirited thread that wove it's way through my wonderful if often difficult trip.

I spent most of my time in eastern Brazil (8-1/2 weeks in Bahia and Piaui), about 2 weeks total in Rio De Janeiro, and then 1-1/2 days in Porto de Iguazu, Argentina. I also spent about 5 days of that in transit on buses (the longest stretch being 22 hrs, in each direction).

Just below, is a map of the quiet Island of Ilha Grande, Bahia, where I spent about 1 month living and teaching. It's the largest island (shaped like a "y") in the protected bay, and I was living on the right side of it. To the right of Ilha Grande is a large peninsula called Baja Grande. Try to find the mainland town of Camamu to the left of Ilha Grande, where we boated to weekly for food and supplies. Below that, is a map of Brazil.

Both maps are interactive (double click or drag, or use the arrows)...



View Larger Map





View Larger Map



Although I did do some touristy things, and visited some touristy places, I did not have the typical tourist experience. I spent most of my time working, teaching, learning from, traveling, living, and socializing with Brazilians from different walks of life. My first 5 weeks were quite stressful, what with language issues, grappling with designing a practical art program with local materials and limited tools, and 2 weeks of a nasty stomach virus. I was sometimes in very rural small traditional towns or islands, with few if any tourists. At the very end of my trip, I met lots of dedicated, inspiring, and generously forthcoming Brazilian artists in Santa Teresa (Rio De Janiero). After 2-1/2 months, I feel filled with enriching experiences, and changed perceptions.

Now that I'm back from my travels, I'll do my best to pull together some assemblence of my experience. Photos and more entries, and probably some editing, will take place during February and March. There are some things I won't even attempt to describe. You'll just have to go, and experience your own version of Brazil.. and then, perhaps someday we can compare stories...

Jan 4 2008 - Caracol, Brazil - How Hot Is It?

34 ºC (93 ºF) may not seem hot to the sturdy rural folks in the dry NE area of Brazil, but to a San Francisco Bay Area gal like me, it's absolutely withering. I can't imagine what it would be like to live in this state's capitol of Terezinha, where it was recently 45 ºC (104 ºF)!

This is my last day in the small town of Caracol (named after a spiral sea shell), where our small contingent set up in a family run hotel from which we've been exploring the countryside's amazing rocky terrain. Amidst tall oddly shaped rocky hills, and dramaticly dark rocky ravines with swallows and small springs, there are some incredible cave paintings several thousand years old. Since this area gets less official support than the nearby more well known park Serra Capivera, exact dates are unknown.



Cactus, cows, and red clay houses, pepper the most rugged landscape. It would all be depressing were it not for the beautiful hills and colorful buildings and people. We were blessed with a little rain over the last couple of weeks, bringing green to the red landscape, as well as plentiful drifts of bright yellow and green butterflies. Some of the rainwater has collected in beautiful temporary pools surrounded by white flowers and patches of tall marshy grass. I'm inspired to paint, and just seeing these rare sights makes the mosquito population worth suffering.

Eventually, I will return to the volunteer center in Capim Grosso, Bahia, where my heaviest luggage and laptop are. From there I'll soon head to Salvador again to regroup, and restructure my itinerary. Seems I have an extra week or 2 to fill, what with my previous plans with Dieter partially falling through. I hope to get some ideas and make some contacts while in Salvador.

Dec 29, 2007 - Serra da Capivara

I'm now in some tiny town in the dry NE Brazilian interior, trying to avoid yellow fever while visiting a park with dying monkeys called Serra da Capivara.

I guess I should calm the fears of my friends that are actually reading my blog, and let you all know that I obtained shots (free) imunizing me against this mosquito related often deadly disease, before obtaining a document signed by my Brazilian friend Dieter that says he's responsible for me (and our Finnish friend) if we die as a result of entering the currently closed part at our own risk.

It's actually a very interesting Unesco Heritage park with ancient cave paintings and skeletal remains who's age shakes up some currently accepted fundamental theories about the spread of homosapiens on planet earth. We have a knowlegable woman guide, and Dieter and Aiya are translating her valuable insite into English for me.


Volunteer teaching on Ilha Grande was mostly a success, even though I had to cancel 2 of 6 art workshops because of illness (mostly) and low attendence (Christmas season!) Unfortunately, I was out of commission for most of 2 weeks with a stomach virus... medical care and the essential drugs have been free! I should get sick here, instead of the US!

Here' s someone else's videos on Serra da Capivara...

Video - Serra da Capivara

xoxox,
Terry

Dec 20, 2007 Ilha Grande - Art Workshops

I was so impressed at how attentive and interested the students were (if they showed up), and how good they were at sharing. This was wonderful, since we only had tools for 10, and sometimes over 20 people showed up. I was also impressed at how observant they were... very important since my Portuguese was incredibly limited. Of course, it helped that there was always at least one person to interpret and help. Mostly it was Dieter, but the German volunteers (such as Ricky) and Renata (the regular art and craft teacher) also pitched in and saved the day.

Dieter, the founder , IT guy, and teacher of several classes (English, Computer, Guitar, you name it), and tutored anyone interested as needed (even some teachers working on advanced degrees), took time off to help shop for art materials in Salvador and Camamu, and then test and help out with the workshops. It was a lot of hard work, and pressure, but it was gratifying to help people learn, and to witness how people can pull together to learn and help each other under such limited circumstances... and even create something wonderful! I think most people in more wealthy cultures, don't normally learn these skills. It's easy to blame lack of tools, materials and opportunity for one's failings in creativity and productivity.

Nov 29 - Vendo - Home Sweet Flooded Home

I'm one of those nuts that runs out onto the beach during warm tropical storms to relish the feeling head on.


It's like standing in front of a giant blow dryer in a steam room. I'll also fling open ocean facing shutters to embrace the incoming strong winds that send my hair straight back and fishermen scurrying to shore. Opening all the doors and windows makes quick work of forcing out any last bit of stale air in previously boarded up under utilized pousadas, such as the one I finally moved into today.

It seems my lot, that there's always a catch that prevents total relaxation and comfort. Just as I looked forward to my first night in my newly bargained pousada, after a long day of lesson plans, logistical challenges, and propane and mosquito net installations, I found myself coming home to a partially flooded house. Good thing it's the typical tropical house of water resiliant ceramic tile and stucco! Still, there's nothing like squishing through a couple of yards of cold clammy water as one traverses the only path to one's freshly dressed and arranged Shabby Chic bedroom.

It's no small blessing that Dieter walked me home to make sure I found it and that my house wasn't flooded. Living on the island for many years, he and his family had more than an inkling that I might succumb to the same fate as most everyone in this weather challenged neighborhood.

My house is the right half of the little orange house, including the door (which only unlocked from the inside, and took a lot of tugging). Despite the flooding, and other hassles, the view, the refreshing wind, and sound s children's waterfights, and fishermen and birds in the morning, made it all worthwhile.





My little bedroom in the peach house, faced east toward the water, thus providing me with wonderful sunrises and views of the milky way, during the wee hours. Ilha Grande is the "y" shaped island below...


View Larger Map

Nov 20, 2007 - Sleepless in Rio

7MB (this may take awhile to load)


Were I not well conditioned by budget travel, for sleeping under
difficult circumstances, I'd probably curse Rio for it's weekend long
music blaring from the hillside favelas (ghettos). The sound echos
across the valley, and must amplify somehow. And this was a holiday
weekend... so you can imagine...

However, let's just say that as far as noise goes, we gave the favelas (Brazilian ghettos) a little sound back last night during a roof top BBQ. There were 3
Americans (all of us currently residing at the house), 2 South
Africans, and mostly Cariocas (Rio locals) raising a ruckas. The view
was gorgeous, the meat tasty, beer plentiful, people lovely and
friendly (and patient Portugues teachers) and the temperatures balmy.

It all made today's clean up worthwhile, though Vicente (the cute guy
flashing the peace signs in the slideshow) and I stuggled to strap down
the uncooperative rooftop tarps, to protect against the coming wind and rain.
Tis the season! Given his hang over (Vodka & Redbull), he wasn't in
the mood for such challenges.

Speaking of rain... the moody sometimes rainy weather has curbed my
enthusiasm for touring Southern Brazil, and unless there's a great turn
in the weather, Ill probably soon be heading north to sunny Salvador,
Bahia.

Nov 19 2007 - Rio de Janeiro - Santa Teresa

Rio de Janeiro (pronounced locally as Hee-yo Gee Jah-nay-row) is a huge
city of extremes. It's both decrepit and lovely, corrupt and generous, crass and refined, antiquated and visionery.

I've had the good fortune
to move to nice home in a hilltop district called Santa Teresa (thanks Margarete!), in a small gated
community of Rio de Janeiro. Occasionally, new guards have given me a hard time about
getting in while the home owner wasn't there, because perhaps I've been
missing from the list... nothing a cell phone call couldn't solve. I
also got into trouble by a particularly gruff train driver, for wandering
around the hill taking pictures. Of course, my host Vicente vowed to
raise a stink over the long time grumpy worker's behavior... but
considering the driver has been around and just as grumpy since HE was
a kid, I don't expect much to come of it.

The slideshow has some beach shots from a particularly grey and drizzly day in Ipanema, made fun by the good company of my new friend Margarete, plus image from the gated community I'm staying in.

The Santa Teresa house incorporates the
side of a mountain, as you can see from the rock wall along the
interior stairs. The architect who designed it, must have gotten a real thrill from the project, and even incorporated a trickling water feature downstairs. Some mornings I turn it on for a couple of minutes and marvel, after visiting the nearby toilet... not a bad way to start the day!