Feb 2008 - I'm Back in San Francisco!

* NOTE: I will be adding a LOT to this blog through March 2008, so check back later!*

I've recently returned from 11 weeks in Brazil, with a quick visit to the spectacular Foz du Iguazu (waterfalls bordering 3 countries) in Argentina. Brazil is a huge diverse country, and I barely scratched the surface.

Words can't adequately describe my experience of Brazil. The phrase "depth charge" comes to mind, but that belies the lovely light spirited thread that wove it's way through my wonderful if often difficult trip.

I spent most of my time in eastern Brazil (8-1/2 weeks in Bahia and Piaui), about 2 weeks total in Rio De Janeiro, and then 1-1/2 days in Porto de Iguazu, Argentina. I also spent about 5 days of that in transit on buses (the longest stretch being 22 hrs, in each direction).

Just below, is a map of the quiet Island of Ilha Grande, Bahia, where I spent about 1 month living and teaching. It's the largest island (shaped like a "y") in the protected bay, and I was living on the right side of it. To the right of Ilha Grande is a large peninsula called Baja Grande. Try to find the mainland town of Camamu to the left of Ilha Grande, where we boated to weekly for food and supplies. Below that, is a map of Brazil.

Both maps are interactive (double click or drag, or use the arrows)...



View Larger Map





View Larger Map



Although I did do some touristy things, and visited some touristy places, I did not have the typical tourist experience. I spent most of my time working, teaching, learning from, traveling, living, and socializing with Brazilians from different walks of life. My first 5 weeks were quite stressful, what with language issues, grappling with designing a practical art program with local materials and limited tools, and 2 weeks of a nasty stomach virus. I was sometimes in very rural small traditional towns or islands, with few if any tourists. At the very end of my trip, I met lots of dedicated, inspiring, and generously forthcoming Brazilian artists in Santa Teresa (Rio De Janiero). After 2-1/2 months, I feel filled with enriching experiences, and changed perceptions.

Now that I'm back from my travels, I'll do my best to pull together some assemblence of my experience. Photos and more entries, and probably some editing, will take place during February and March. There are some things I won't even attempt to describe. You'll just have to go, and experience your own version of Brazil.. and then, perhaps someday we can compare stories...

Nov 19 2007 - Rio de Janeiro - Santa Teresa

Rio de Janeiro (pronounced locally as Hee-yo Gee Jah-nay-row) is a huge
city of extremes. It's both decrepit and lovely, corrupt and generous, crass and refined, antiquated and visionery.

I've had the good fortune
to move to nice home in a hilltop district called Santa Teresa (thanks Margarete!), in a small gated
community of Rio de Janeiro. Occasionally, new guards have given me a hard time about
getting in while the home owner wasn't there, because perhaps I've been
missing from the list... nothing a cell phone call couldn't solve. I
also got into trouble by a particularly gruff train driver, for wandering
around the hill taking pictures. Of course, my host Vicente vowed to
raise a stink over the long time grumpy worker's behavior... but
considering the driver has been around and just as grumpy since HE was
a kid, I don't expect much to come of it.

The slideshow has some beach shots from a particularly grey and drizzly day in Ipanema, made fun by the good company of my new friend Margarete, plus image from the gated community I'm staying in.

The Santa Teresa house incorporates the
side of a mountain, as you can see from the rock wall along the
interior stairs. The architect who designed it, must have gotten a real thrill from the project, and even incorporated a trickling water feature downstairs. Some mornings I turn it on for a couple of minutes and marvel, after visiting the nearby toilet... not a bad way to start the day!