Jun 27, 2004

Ergonomically Challenged Busses /Zen and the Art of Street Crossing

Phenom Penn, Cambodia
3pm, Sunday

I just arrived in Phenom Penn after a 7-1/2 hr long ride from Siem Reap via a not-quite-air conditioned ergonomically challenged bus. Several hot and long legged passengers compensated by opening windows and sitting in the isles. My body aches, and I'm sticky and smelly.

Unfortunately, I was forced to take the $4 budget bus, rather than the $6 premium bus from the excellent competitor, Mekong Express. It was a last minute booking by my Siem Riep guest house. I tried to do them a favor and let them book it so they could earn a commission, but unfortunately, it took them 3 hours to get around to it because the owner (and more importantly his cell phone) wasn't around, and because of a very distracting ongoing chess game. It seems they'd rather finish a chess game, than take care of business including receiving payments or writing receipts. Oddly, they are wonderful on other service fronts, and when the minivan pickup looked like it was running late, the young owner drove me by motorbike to the bus station.

The good news is that today's meals will add up to less than $3... if I don't succomb to the lure of the street. Herb's "Happy Pizza" does intrigue though...

I leave early in the morning, and am now on the hunt for the Mekong Express company, so I can avoid repeating the same uncomfortable journey to Saigon, Vietnam. I'll also research if there's anything else I need for the border crossing besides my Vietnam visa.

This neighborhood of Phenom Penn full of hussle and bustle, and is even more congested and unattractive than I expected. Still, there is a charm to some of the nearby locals only neighborhoods. My last stay was in the quieter lillypad filled Lake district. I decided to try something different, and have taken the advice of one regular visitor, to try Capitol 3 Guesthouse. Like the previous visit's room, it's under $5. The advantage is that it's in a more popular expat area for cheap restaurants and drinking holes. I was happy to finally plop my bags down in my hotel room, and even more thrilled to have the room boy carry my excruciatingly heavy bag up the 5 flights of stairs!

Although I sorely wanted (and needed) a shower, I immediately headed back into the street to book tomorrow's bus ticket to Siagon, Vietnam, and to check my business email. Unfortunately, my guest house is pushing another company.

I just realize that I've developed nerves of steel regarding riding motorbike taxis. I never thought I'd be weaving in and out of such crazy traffic, laden with a big purse and backpack, and a heavy suitcase cradled between all my driver's appendages. One simply cannot function in SE Asia, and still play it safe. Even if one had the budget for cushy air con taxis, they're simply not an option in many places. I also carve a fairly elegant path through heavy traffic as I cross the street with zen like aplumb. It's almost like swimming through a river with floating leaves. If you go with the current, they somehow part as you swim through them.

...don't try this at home...

Back to the Mekong Express Bus search.

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