Nov 17 2007 - Santa Teresa, Brazil - Day 4 in Brazil

Santa Teresa, Brazil

Although my first impression of Rio de Janeiro, was that it was an ugly caotic crumbling city that has never seen repairs since colonial times, the charm is emerging. I'm glad about my choice to head straight to Santa Teresa, one of the most "bohemian" neighborhoods in Rio, with many artists, some festive nightlife, street vendors (shots of caphirinha! to go!), restaurants and retail therapy. It sits on a steep hill with great views of the city and ocean, winding cobblestone streets with busses and a charming yellow cable car.

The locals are quite friendly, and my first night there I found myself socializing with a Political Science author (expat from Argentina) and a buddhist monk (recently returned from 2 years in Japan), first at a sushi bar, then a tiny cinema watching a first rate movie in Portuguese about Rossa a famous Rio composer, followed up by lively conversation a tiny local outdoor bar/grocery Largo du Neves.

On day 4, I moved to a nice house in Santa Teresa to rent a room, on the recommendation of a German woman who had lived in Brazil for 20 years, and considering moving back after a short stint in Berlin. Itś a big artistic place in a very pretty private neighborhood with a big rock for one wall along the inside of the whole house. The parents built it many years ago, and the father is an artist. The only way to get there is through a gate and a bondequeno (little 4 seater train that runs on propane) to take us up the steep winding path. The son grew up there and his parents retired and bought another place a few hours away on the beach, so he's left there to take care of it and rents out rooms sometimes while he works and finishes school. I will be there for the Sunday BBQ party... Brazilian style!

Vicente, the son, and his girlfriend Paolo, are very nice and patient, and teaching me Portuguese. Paola's particularly liguistic, and speaks Mandarin and getting ready to do an internship in Beijing. I thinking of staying indoors during this grey weather, and studying my Portugues so I can speak better in time for the Sunday party.

The accent in Rio is very pretty, and apparently considered sophisticated and charming in the rest of Brazil (at least according to the locals)... but boy, is it confusing! I'm just used enough to Spanish to screw me up for Portuguese pronunciation. There are lots of similarities when it's written, but that's it. "De" (pronounced in Spanish as "day") is pronounced in Portuguese as "gee", and Rio de Janeiro is pronounced "hee-yo gee Jah-nay-gho". "ingho" is pronounced "een-yo"... and "Vicente" is pronounced "Vee-sench" (rhymes with bench), etc.

I'm happy to be here since I was a little depressed at the Hostel...TV blaring day and night (sometimes at the same time as techno music) was not the kind of ambience I had in mind, and it was empty and yet noisy at night . The food was pathetic enought that I'd rather just cook my own. There a much better hostel down the road, but for $6/night more, I have a much nicer place where I feel completely at ease and inspired. I's fairly easy to meet people here, and there's a lot of helpful travelers including those who have lived in Brazil at one time or another.

I going to see if I can book a ticket soon to Salvador. It 's a little easier to think now that I'm over jetlag. My friend Dieter will meet me there on the weekend, and escort me to the little island (a different Ilha Grande).

I would love to go to Ilha Grande, a pristine beautiful island a few hours busride & ferry from Rio de Janeiro, but the weather is really terrible for that. I'm going to see how the is weather after the weekend, to decide if I will stay in Rio or go to Ilha Grande, but I think I will probably save ILha Grande for another time when the weather is consistently better and my budget larger.

Although everyone's toaster seems to have a broken timer, I feel lucky to be here in a lovely home in Rio with nice people where I feel safe and my belongings secure.

Most everyone has been friendly, helpful, and patient as I bumble along.

beijos,
Terry