Nov 22 - Dec 7 Bahia & The last 2 weeks

Apologies for not writing in a long time! I've been extremely busy, tired and my brain scrambled, from all the travel, errands, and multiple languages since I left Rio around Nov 22. Inaccuate clocks, missed and delayed flights, shopping for art supplies while in Salvador, added to the complexity. But, it's been a very interesting a lively mix, and though it wrecked what little Portugues I learned, it was affirming and interesting to meet other travelers.

I'm currently on Ilha Grande developing the art program for Dieter's community center, but I spent about 4 days in Salvador, Bahia (I'd like to return) before heading south to Ilha Grande, the largest in a cluster of islands, a half a day's travel by ferry - bus -boat.

Bahia, has the most African ancestry and influence, or all the regions in Brazil. Music, religion, food, and attitude, all have a very non-European spin. Salvador's old hilltop neighborhood called Pelhourinho, oozes personality. Drum beats, capoira, and the aroma of palm oil fried foods, are never far away.

Although beautiful to view, many areas of Pelhourinho that would be considered charming have born witness to atrocities such as slave trading, torture and religious oppression. But strong spirits find a way to survive, and have forged a fascinating culture... in spite of the sometimes perverse effects of tourism.

There was more than a handful of photographers that are, or have already, forged a pretty international lifestyle spending months or years travelling or living abroad. On young woman named Rachel (sp?), actually just moved to San Francisco early 2007, and we plan to do some salsa dancing when I get back. Goodness knows eating all the manioca & polenta around here isn't going to help melt away my love handles!

Bahia in particular is pretty ramshackle and jury rigged. The "manana" attitude prevails, and takes some getting used to. But it's also the most interesting and colorful for me... at least what I've seen in Colonial Salvador, and the little rural towns and villages between there and Ilha Grande, to the South. The islands have their own mini cultures, and lean heavily toward fishing. Fresh crab and shellfish is plentiful, though caught mostly around full and new moons when the tide is low. It's generally pretty cheap, with the food and organic produce being the cheapest. Things that are luxury items in the US (fresh seafood & exotic fruits) are plentiful and common place here, and visa versa. Sometimes its a real surprise what's available... or not.

The difficulties I've experienced are mostly because of my own ignorance, and inability to speak the language. And let's face it, public transportation is always sort of a hassle to learn. Fortunately, the people have been generally so lovely and helpful that they scramble to help. Usually someone speaks a little English or Spanish. Sign language goes a long way! Since getting to Bahia, my Brazilian friend Dieter has been a great help, and showing me some of the best spots to visit. Never have I met anyone so patient or helpful.

The good side of Brazil is really wonderful and enchanting. It's actually pretty together in some ways... I think most everyone would love the all you can eat buffets and food by weight eateries in the cities... basically a help yourself salad bar / buffet. The fresh fruit juices (including au natural coconut & squeezed sugar cane) are everywhere, and are incredible... I feel really refreshed and nourished after drinking them!

I'm on Ilha Grande now, a the funky little island with no tourism, putting together the art program with Dieter. Ironically, life on the island is a lot more schedule intensive, and complex, than my life at home. I'm sure that has a lot to do with my role and ambitious role to put together and run several art workshops and help with the community center, but also the island depends a lot on supplies on the mainland. It's about a 1.5 hr commute in each direction by private boat, with only a couple trips a day... mostly returning by 11am. My close friends will find it hard to believe that I've converted to waking up at dawn!

Despite nasty sunburn and a bout with Montezuma's revenge, it's been mostly wonderful. Paradise is just a short walk away. I've had some really wonderful BBQ'd octopus on one of the prettiest little beaches I've been to in my life. I run several art workshops over the next week and a half... then Dec 20 - Jan 20 (or so), Dieter and I will travel nature and small towns in Bahia, including Chapada Diamantina.

My head is a lot more scrambled than usual, what with trying to learn Portuguese and translating class lessons'promotions, and conversations between English / Portuguese / German. 4 of the volunteers with Dieter's father's organization are young Germans (one who grew up part of the time in Canada). I eat one or two meals a day at Dieter's family's house, and they're always there to help out. There are virtually no restaurants on the island, so it's pretty basic. Wonderfully, Dieter is a great cook! He's put his travels to good use, putting an exotic spin here or there on traditional Brazilian and Bolivian dishes.

I'll upload the Bahia photos soon. I'vw been way too busy to update my blog while on Ilha Grande... I've been stopping into English classes to help with conversations, and putting together the art program and experiementing with local materials has been more complicated than I expected. Also, it's hard to get a seat in the popular community center's internet room... even if my friend IS the head of it!